Calling All Vetter Keys


Kynan C.

Admin
Country flag
I am thinking that Ron is right. I am still plugging forward in Keyland trying to find a solution for those whom need assistance with keys. The big question is how many different versions are there?

It may be easier to find an exact replacement lock and key set, and replace the existing ones. If you don't have the original key to your "vintage" lock then its not really vintage anymore without "said" key. So, in this case why not get a new lock and key? If we can find some.
 

Beekman

Learning the Ropes
Just my 2 cents, I would assume out collective efforts would be better used finding a new lock and key set like you said XS
 

roncar

Moderator
I am still plugging forward in Keyland trying to find a solution for those whom need assistance with keys. The big question is how many different versions are there?
I also am not giving up, but my assets are limited. Not trying to put words in Craig's mouth, but logically I feel the 'different versions' are related to economics. When purchasing locks (lock sets) in quantity, a few cents here and there adds up on your bottom line. Same with the 'new owners' when he sold the company.

...It may be easier to find an exact replacement lock and key set, and replace the existing ones.
Just my 2 cents, I would assume out collective efforts would be better used finding a new lock and key set like you said XS
This may be more difficult than it sounds. Even Craig can not point to "exact" replacements.

From craigvetter.com's FAQ
Take the old lock to any locksmith store and buy a replacement lock. The new lever that comes with your lock will work fine for the tonneu and the saddlebag doors. However... You will notice that the square cam at the bottom of the lock is larger than the original Vetter cam, so the Vetter lever will not work. Here are my suggestions to replace the saddlebag locks. The locks we used "seem" to be made today. They look exactly the same. But the little square cam that holds the lever is much bigger now. The only way you are like to solve your problem is to take one of your lock assemblies to a locksmith and have him order as many as you need for all your locks - all with the same key. The fairing cover parts will go on easily as mentioned above. The saddlebag door and Tail trunk door will work also using the supplied lever. The locks that hold the bag are the problem. They must have the square cam filed down to fit the original Vetter brass cam. The brass cam also will probably need to be drilled out a bit because they use a larger screw today.
If you don't have the original key to your "vintage" lock then its not really vintage anymore without "said" key. So, in this case why not get a new lock and key? If we can find some.
Rather than trying to reverse engineer keys for old locks
The manually cut key in my earlier post was all about economics. A set of saddlebags I bought without any keys (4 locks.) Rather than buy 4 locks and key them the same, once I found a usable blank, disassembling one lock, hand cutting a key, and having it work in all 4 locks was, for me, a better option.

When it comes to keys, I've always felt 'any' key that works is better than 'none.' If you're entering in a show, then OEM keys would be good. For a daily rider, who cares what's in your pocket?

For me keyed alike is important. If you're getting locks "off the shelf" you are not likely to find enough locks keyed the same for a full vetter setup (6). You could do as Craig suggests and special order the quantity you need, no idea on the cost though. If there is an interest, I can go thru the procedure to 'rekey' locks so 1 key fits all. Not difficult but remember there are some small parts that are easily lost. Especially if you work in a cluttered area.
 

Beekman

Learning the Ropes
I agree that hand cutting ones for yourself is more economical. It would indeed be very difficult to find a set of 6 locks keyed the same. Especially ones that would fit, and tbh I totally blanked on the bags and tail trunk (since I still don't have a set haha)
 

Beekman

Learning the Ropes
Does disassembling the lock involve making it unusable again?

My interest in locks and the internal workings is very peaked, but my base knowledge is pretty shotty on the subject haha might need to peruse YouTube for some enlightenment
 

roncar

Moderator
Does disassembling the lock involve making it unusable again?
I'd have to say that depends on the lock. Most of the DIY store locks I've messed with, removing the cam allows the plug to fall out the front. My experience with the OEM vetter locks, I've had to 'drive' the plug out from the back. This usually means that the lock plug is now held in by the cam, like the DIY store locks.

My interest in locks and the internal workings is very peaked, but my base knowledge is pretty shotty on the subject haha might need to peruse YouTube for some enlightenment
Lots of information out there and these cam locks are pretty simple in comparison to most (re. more secure) locks. As I read long ago, "Locks just keep honest people honest."
 

CountryXJer

Grasshopper
OK guys and gals, Newby here and ready to help stir things up! :p I recently acquired a 1982 KZ750 CSR with the Windjammer IV fairing and am looking for a key blank. My key has stamped VF-110. This same key looks like at least the VF 108 and fits my fuel cap also.
Any help appreciated.
2015-06-29 20.32.35.jpg
 

brianinpa

Five Star Vetteral
Country flag
Welcome to the forum Country! I am sure those that know will answer soon, and I am interested also.

VF-101 : Donated by Craig Vetter
VF-102 : Donated by Craig Vetter
VF-103 : Donated by Craig Vetter
VF-104 : Donated by Craig Vetter
VF-106 : Donated by Craig Vetter
VF-108 : Donated by Craig Vetter
VF-109 : Donated by Craig Vetter

Looks like the VF-110 isn't on that list either. Stephen has the 105 and after reading this thread, I realized that I have the 107. If I can get one made, I'll donate the 107 to the cause.
 

Larry Fine

Moderator
Country flag
My WJ-V came with a VF101 shaped like the one above. The KG bags came with a Hudson GG130, and the trunk a Hudson TS39. All locks work perfectly.
 

roncar

Moderator
... I recently acquired a 1982 KZ750 CSR with the Windjammer IV fairing and am looking for a key blank. My key has stamped VF-110. This same key looks like at least the VF 108 and fits my fuel cap also.
First, if your VF-110 key also fits your gas cap, it is a wild coincidence or someone has altered your gas cap lock for it to work. From what I see, this is definitely not a Kawasaki key.

Second, my best guess is a D8777 key blank by National Lock. Getting one is the problem. I found a place online that had them for $1.50, but shipping was $17 and change.:eek: I'm looking but only economically feasible when buying in quantity to spread out the shipping costs. The problem is I don't have a blank in hand nor an OEM lock and key to compare and try. ~$20 for a single blank (or $138 for a hundred at another site) is not in my budget, especially if they are not the correct blank.
8777larger-jpg.1048
 

CountryXJer

Grasshopper
First, if your VF-110 key also fits your gas cap, it is a wild coincidence or someone has altered your gas cap lock for it to work. From what I see, this is definitely not a Kawasaki key.

I discovered both fit the fuel cap.

Second, my best guess is a D8777 key blank by National Lock. Getting one is the problem. I found a place online that had them for $1.50, but shipping was $17 and change.:eek: I'm looking but only economically feasible when buying in quantity to spread out the shipping costs. The problem is I don't have a blank in hand nor an OEM lock and key to compare and try. ~$20 for a single blank (or $138 for a hundred at another site) is not in my budget, especially if they are not the correct blank.

8777larger-jpg.1048

I found a site that has the key.
Quantity Amount
1 to 4 $6.92
5 to 9 $3.46
10 to 49 $1.73
50 or more $1.38

15 keys to my door is $34(arbitrary #). This is with $7.95 shipping. I only need one ($14 shipped), so if enough people want/need one, I will take point. I do not think it will cost me much to reship in a bubble envelope or other envelope. CountryXJer@gmail.com
 

roncar

Moderator
I'm always trying to keep costs to a minimum and have been number crunching and came to these conclusions/plan of attack.

1. Is there enough interest in copies of the VF series keys to make duplicating them feasible?

2. For me to do this, I need:
a. to get blanks and it is a leap of faith the D8777 is the correct blank. Sure looks like it to me.
b. to get the OEM keys to duplicate to the blanks
c. to get at least one VF series lock (other than VF-104 if possible) to practice with

3. I think I can do this for ~$6.00 each shipped and can cut to the code and stamp the code onto the key (if desired)

4. I'd like to try to cut by code vs. duplicating but I'll have to practice with a couple of locks first to try to find something that works. I have a key duplicator and a code cut tool, so I can cut them regardless.

5. this practicing will consume some keys and from experience there is some wastage. Small but with blanks north of $2 each, it adds up quickly.

6. as there are no markings on the locks, I can probably make keys for keyless locks, if the locks are sent to me. Shipping the lock back and forth will add to the costs. IMHO this would only be feasible if you had a matched set of locks (ie. 1 key fits 6 locks) For a single fairing lock, get one at the DIY.

I am at step 1.

I would need interest in ~25 keys or so, in order to proceed.

For less interest than that, CountryXJer's option may be better. But that just get's you a blank key.
 

Kynan C.

Admin
Country flag
I'm always trying to keep costs to a minimum and have been number crunching and came to these conclusions/plan of attack.

1. Is there enough interest in copies of the VF series keys to make duplicating them feasible?

2. For me to do this, I need:
a. to get blanks and it is a leap of faith the D8777 is the correct blank. Sure looks like it to me.
b. to get the OEM keys to duplicate to the blanks
c. to get at least one VF series lock (other than VF-104 if possible) to practice with

3. I think I can do this for ~$6.00 each shipped and can cut to the code and stamp the code onto the key (if desired)

4. I'd like to try to cut by code vs. duplicating but I'll have to practice with a couple of locks first to try to find something that works. I have a key duplicator and a code cut tool, so I can cut them regardless.

5. this practicing will consume some keys and from experience there is some wastage. Small but with blanks north of $2 each, it adds up quickly.

6. as there are no markings on the locks, I can probably make keys for keyless locks, if the locks are sent to me. Shipping the lock back and forth will add to the costs. IMHO this would only be feasible if you had a matched set of locks (ie. 1 key fits 6 locks) For a single fairing lock, get one at the DIY.

I am at step 1.

I would need interest in ~25 keys or so, in order to proceed.

For less interest than that, CountryXJer's option may be better. But that just get's you a blank key.

Are you referring to using the blanks that CountryXJ is speaking of? Is there a link to where these blanks are?
 
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