Vibration Isolators on Side Racks

FLXS

Grasshopper
#1
Hi
New to the site. I have a question about the vibration isolators on Vetter floating mount saddlebag brackets. Not the so-called bunkies for the top box, but the ones that are on the side bag mounts. I picked up a nice set of racks and bags for my 1978 XS1100E and am in the process of cleaning them up and preparing to mount them. I noticed that a couple of the upper mounting tabs could use a couple of small welds - just for a little extra security. But I won't be able to do the welding unless I remove the rubber vibration isolators. My question is...how can they be detached? They are amazingly all in good shape so I do not want to screw them up. After poking, prodding, trying to turn, etc. I have not been able to get them to move. Maybe they don't? Can someone tell me how these things are attached to the tubular frame and any recommendations for removal?
Thanks a lot.
Paul
 

Scott-E

Vetter Aficionado
#2
Hi
New to the site. I have a question about the vibration isolators on Vetter floating mount saddlebag brackets. Not the so-called bunkies for the top box, but the ones that are on the side bag mounts. I picked up a nice set of racks and bags for my 1978 XS1100E and am in the process of cleaning them up and preparing to mount them. I noticed that a couple of the upper mounting tabs could use a couple of small welds - just for a little extra security. But I won't be able to do the welding unless I remove the rubber vibration isolators. My question is...how can they be detached? They are amazingly all in good shape so I do not want to screw them up. After poking, prodding, trying to turn, etc. I have not been able to get them to move. Maybe they don't? Can someone tell me how these things are attached to the tubular frame and any recommendations for removal?
Thanks a lot.
Paul
They are attached to the frame via contact cement. The metal part where the rubber is glued on it is perfectly flat where it meets the rubber. The rubber may simply pull away due to age with a aggressive tugging and twisting as mine did. They were already close to falling off by themselves. When you go to reinstall them you'll need to use sand paper on the steel pad until it's shinny metal free of all old glue and contamination. If you plan on reusing the old rubber pads you'll need to sand them as well until you obtain a clean, flat rubber surface. Then you can reattach the old rubber or new rubber peaces to the steel pads using contact cement. Use a quality, high strength contact cement and follow the directions precisely.
 

FLXS

Grasshopper
#4
Thanks Scott E and Dieter. You guys have informed me that the isolators are not threaded or pressed in. All the rubbers and the fastening points are in good shape, but I need to remove at least one - or melt the rubber during the welding. I like the idea of using the replaceable isolators with drilling/tapping the frame - seems like a good solution. Thanks again.
Paul
 

dieter

Learning the Ropes
#5
Hi, as I had to see while installing my luggage - there are varying distances between frame and luggage.
Therefore you should order those rubbers in diverse lengths between 15mm and 25mm to adjuste the luggage properly.

Dieter
 

FLXS

Grasshopper
#6
Good advice. I see that replacing the existing size rubber isolators will not make the luggage secure firmly. I had thought that 20mm would work, but your advice to get a few different sizes is a good way to go.
Paul
 

FLXS

Grasshopper
#7
Well, I finally got into this project. After cutting the first isolator off I realized that these things are threaded into the luggage mount frame. 10-32 pitch threaded hole. I had bought replacement isolators-these:

JW Winco Series GN 352 Rubber Type S Cylindrical Vibration and Shock Absorption Mount with Threaded Stud

Bought them with 6mm studs before I realized that there was already a 10-32 hole, so I rethreaded the holes. But if you can obtain mounts with 10-32 pitch studs, its a piece of cake to replace the isolators.
 
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