Does anyone think this would work?

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Seth Matthews

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#1
I plan on bending some tubing in the shape of my old sissy bar, making a sturdy pad for it, and threading the ends of the tubing.

then making a steel support plate for under the seat, with pilot holes for the threaded ends.

to attach, simply mount the support plate to the top of the frame / under the seat.

then slide the threaded ends through the pilot holes, and twist on some wing nuts.

seat backrest plans.png
 
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Seth Matthews

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#4
I'm not sure, but with the hinges, I can bypass the steel plate and have an easily detachable backrest. it'd be just as easy to build, and a lot easier to take on and off. Thoughts???
 
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brianinpa

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#5
Is the red pipe in your drawing the frame? I like the idea and I am looking at ways to make one for my 1200, but there is a LOT of stress put on a back rest.
 
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Seth Matthews

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#6
The red is the hinge around the hardware. (i haven't quite figured out the hardware yet. But if I were to use grade 8 hardware, or maybe keep door hinges? On open for suggestions. I was thinking 2 hinges per side, about 6-8" apart with the pilot hole in the center. Or, maybe even 3 hinges, the middle being the pilot welded with some reinforced metal around it. I'm not sure till I start working on it.
 
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Saxonplace

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#8
Maybe just a tube slightly larger diameter that the backrest tube fixed either side on the frame then the backrest slides inside and is secured by a clevis pin or bolt through both so its easy to remove the backrest by just lifting out. The mounting tubes could go downwards and pick up on a couple of points on the frame so they were more ridgid than just a single point welded to a plate which I think would not be able to take the force you would get from leaning on the backrest.
 
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Seth Matthews

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#9
Here's trial #1 after bending some aluminum stock I had into the right shape for a template. I took some semi-thick, (about 3/8 inch) metal flat stock, and started bending it into shape with my table vise. once done, I backed off the bolts going from my brackets and cargo bar, and slid the flat stock between the two, re-tightened them to sandwich the flat iron between them. Then I drilled the holes for the backrest pad, and ended up with something like this. (pardon the crudeness of my drawing, its not my best work)

bike backrest flat iron.png
 
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Seth Matthews

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#13
I used a couple prices of all thread cut to length for a spacer, and clamped them between the brackets and the cargo rack.
 

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Seth Matthews

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#15
I'm hoping the wind will die down here tomorrow so I can go out, even if for just an hour or so. It's been so windy here that I was driving my Ford Explorer today and changed lanes, without wanting to. The wind hit me cross ways at 65 mph and forced me into the next lane. needless to say, I won't be riding in that lol.
 
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#16
I'm hoping the wind will die down here tomorrow so I can go out, even if for just an hour or so. It's been so windy here that I was driving my Ford Explorer today and changed lanes, without wanting to. The wind hit me cross ways at 65 mph and forced me into the next lane. needless to say, I won't be riding in that lol.
Yikes, yeah stay out of that wind. No good for riding!
 
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Seth Matthews

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#17
Took it out tonight for about 20 minutes, it worked quite well. A slight wiggle as expected since its not actually bolted or fixed in place other than the two pieces of all thread as guides. But not bad, it stayed in place in spite of the wiggle. I have mine sitting back a little far compared to what some of you might find functional, (I'm 6'5" - 280 lbs) that being said, I could recline way back, feet out on the highway pegs, and just grip my bars. I am considering drilling a hole for a "stopper" bolt to keep the flat iron from sliding too far back into the guides, thus keeping the backrest more "forward" to the drivers position. This will allow me to enjoy it without sitting in a reclining position. I want to ride it more before settling on this decision though. The backrest did have some spring to it, it didn't feel completely rigid, but I kind of liked that, it felt like maybe it rode smoother than it might if it were any more solid. Just my 2 cents worth.

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#18
Took it out tonight for about 20 minutes, it worked quite well. A slight wiggle as expected since its not actually bolted or fixed in place other than the two pieces of all thread as guides. But not bad, it stayed in place in spite of the wiggle. I have mine sitting back a little far compared to what some of you might find functional, (I'm 6'5" - 280 lbs) that being said, I could recline way back, feet out on the highway pegs, and just grip my bars. I am considering drilling a hole for a "stopper" bolt to keep the flat iron from sliding too far back into the guides, thus keeping the backrest more "forward" to the drivers position. This will allow me to enjoy it without sitting in a reclining position. I want to ride it more before settling on this decision though. The backrest did have some spring to it, it didn't feel completely rigid, but I kind of liked that, it felt like maybe it rode smoother than it might if it were any more solid. Just my 2 cents worth.

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Good deal Seth. As time moves forward I am sure you will continue to develop it.
 
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Seth Matthews

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#19
Good deal Seth. As time moves forward I am sure you will continue to develop it.
I backed the rear screws out, took away the spacers, and clamped the flat iron between them again to sturdy it all up. I rode it to work and back thursday. I bounced off the thing pretty hard a few times to test it, even popped the clutch at high rpm a few times accelerating, I was very pleased with it, it had some spring, but didn't fold up or anything.
 
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#20
I was looking at the rack for the XS11 and I saw these two plastic clamp like holders. After seeing your post, it make me think.... Duh! Those are for a adjustable back rest. Ill take a pick of the rack for ya.